How to photograph sports jerseys to sell, in short: steam out the creases, hang the jersey on a wide hanger against a plain light wall (or lay it flat on a clean floor), and shoot in soft daylight with no flash. Take the full front and back, then close-ups of the crest, name and number, every tag, the stitching, sponsor patches and any flaws. Use 1600 px or more.
More on this topic: Product photography, every guide in one place.
Jersey buyers are looking for two things: authenticity and condition. Fakes are common, so collectors zoom into the crest, the tags, the stitching and the product codes before they buy. Wrinkles, bad color and missing tag photos make a genuine shirt look doubtful. This guide covers the setup, hanging vs flat lay, the authentication close-ups, game-worn and signed shirts, sizing photos and the mistakes that cost sales. The free product collage maker can put front and back side by side for a strong main image.
- Prep: steam or iron on low inside out; lint-roll; never iron heat-pressed numbers directly.
- Hang or flat lay: a wide hanger on a plain wall, or flat on a light floor from directly above.
- Soft daylight: no flash and no warm bulbs; club colors must look right.
- Authentication close-ups: crest, wash tags, product code tag, stitching, sponsor and sleeve patches.
- Measurements: photograph pit-to-pit and length with a tape measure.
Should you hang or flat lay a jersey for photos?
Both work; pick one and use it for every shirt you sell. Hanging shows the jersey's shape and is easy to set up; a flat lay shot from directly above is more consistent and shows the whole shirt without the hanger pulling at the shoulders.
| Method | Best for | How |
|---|---|---|
| Wide hanger on a plain wall | Most shirts; quick listings | Light wall, hanger on a hook, phone at chest height |
| Flat lay on the floor | Consistent shop look, long sleeves | Light floor or sheet, phone straight above on a ladder or tripod arm |
| Mannequin or dress form | Premium and framed-quality shirts | Shows fit and drape; keep it plain |
| Worn by a person | Fit and sizing questions | As an extra photo, not the main one |
For more on hanging, flat lay and ghost mannequin methods for clothing in general, see how to photograph clothes for selling online and our ghost mannequin guide.
How do you prepare a jersey for photos?
Remove creases, lint and loose threads, and straighten the collar and sleeves. Polyester jerseys show every fold in a photo, and a creased shirt looks worn even when it isn't.
- Steam the jersey on a hanger, or iron inside out on a low setting with a cloth between.
- Never put an iron directly on heat-pressed names, numbers or badges; they can melt or lift.
- Lint-roll both sides, especially dark shirts.
- Button or straighten the collar; smooth the sleeves so they hang evenly.
- Tuck the hanger's hook behind the collar so it isn't the focus of the photo.
How do you light a jersey for photos?
Use soft daylight from a window to the side of the shirt, with no direct sun and no flash. Club colors matter to buyers, and warm indoor bulbs turn white kits cream and blues purple.
- Window light: stand the jersey a meter or two from a window, side-on to it.
- Fill: a white sheet or foam board on the other side keeps the far half from going dark.
- Shiny fabric: modern player-issue shirts can shine; move the light further to the side.
- White balance: correct it so white kits look white, not blue or yellow.
Pressed names, numbers and badges are glossy and reflect light differently from the fabric. If they glare, move the light, not the shirt. A small reflection is fine and even shows the texture buyers use to check originality.
What photos should a jersey listing have?
Full front, full back, then close-ups of the crest, the manufacturer logo, the name and number, every tag, the stitching, any patches and any flaws. These close-ups are what collectors use to judge authenticity.
| Photo | What buyers check | When |
|---|---|---|
| Full front | Kit, season, condition | Main photo |
| Full back | Name and number, condition | Always |
| Crest and maker logo close-up | Stitched or heat-pressed; quality | Always |
| Neck tag or printed collar label | Size and maker | Always |
| Inside wash tags and product code tag | Product code and date details collectors check | Always |
| Name and number close-up | Font, material, cracking or peeling | Printed shirts |
| Sleeve and sponsor patches | Correct patches for the season or competition | When present |
| Stitching and hems | Construction quality | Higher-value shirts |
| Flaws | Pulls, stains, cracked print, holes | Whenever there is one |
| Measurements | Pit-to-pit and length on a tape measure | Always for used shirts |
Most marketplaces allow plenty of photos (eBay up to 24), so use them. Buyers of vintage and player-issue shirts would rather see too many tag photos than too few.
eBay's photo limit were checked in October 2026. Marketplaces change their rules, so confirm the current requirements in your seller dashboard before you upload a large batch.
How do you photograph game-worn and signed jerseys?
Photograph the signature in soft side light so the ink and any smudging are clear, and photograph every certificate, hologram or letter of authenticity next to the shirt. For game-worn shirts, show the wear and any match details as they are; that is the value.
- Signature: close-up, square on, with enough of the shirt around it to show where it is.
- Certificate and hologram: the certificate in full, plus the matching hologram on the shirt in the same frame if you can.
- Wear: stud marks, grass stains and repairs, photographed honestly.
- Framed shirts: shoot at an angle to the glass to avoid reflections, and show the frame's corners and back.
Can you use a white background for jerseys?
For new shirts sold on marketplaces with white main-image rules, yes: shoot the flat lay or hanging shot, then cut it out with the background remover. For used and vintage shirts, a plain light wall or floor is fine on eBay, Depop and Vinted, and many buyers trust real-looking photos more.
Put the front and back of a shirt side by side as one main image. Free, no sign-up, nothing uploaded.
Open the collage maker7 days free · 50 credits · No credit cardWhat are the most common jersey photo mistakes?
| Mistake | Fix |
|---|---|
| Creased shirt | Steam it; iron inside out on low |
| Colors off | Daylight, no warm bulbs; correct white balance |
| No tag photos | Neck tag, wash tags and product code tag every time |
| Cluttered bedroom background | Plain light wall or floor |
| Back of shirt missing | Always show the name and number |
| No measurements | Pit-to-pit and length on a tape measure |
Crop and straighten with the free image cropper, correct white balance in the photo editor, and export each marketplace's size with the marketplace image resizer. For printed tees, see how to photograph t-shirts.
Frequently asked questions
How do you photograph a sports jersey to sell?
Steam it, hang it on a wide hanger against a plain light wall or lay it flat, and shoot in soft daylight. Add close-ups of the crest, tags, name and number, patches and flaws.
Which tags should I photograph on a football shirt?
The neck tag or printed collar label, the inside wash tags and any product code tag. Collectors use these to check authenticity and the season.
Is it better to hang or flat lay a jersey?
Either works. Hanging is quicker and shows shape; flat lay is more consistent. Use the same method for every listing.
How do I photograph a signed jersey?
Shoot the signature in soft side light, square on, and photograph the certificate and hologram next to the shirt.
Can I iron a jersey before photos?
Iron inside out on low with a cloth between, and never put the iron directly on heat-pressed names, numbers or badges. A steamer is safer.
Should I include measurements?
Yes. A photo of pit-to-pit and length on a tape measure answers the most common question before it's asked.
Vintage and used shirts need photos of the real item. For new merchandise you sell, AiArter turns phone photos into white marketplace images and lifestyle scenes.
Start free trialSee pricing7 days free · 50 credits · No credit card. Trial images carry a small “Made with aiarter” mark; paid plans export clean files you can use commercially.
