How to photograph resin art: use one large diffused light to the side so the gloss shows a single soft highlight, add a backlit shot to show transparency and inclusions, and shoot 6 to 8 photos per piece: front, angled, edge, backlit, close-up, in use and scale. Set white balance on a white card and export at 2000 px.
Resin is two difficult materials in one. The cured surface is a mirror, so it reflects your room, your phone and every window. Underneath, it's often clear or translucent, with pigments, flowers, foil and cells that only show up when light passes through them. Good resin photos control the reflection on top and use light through the piece to reveal what's inside. This guide covers coasters, trays, river tables, geodes, jewelry and ocean pours. For general reflection control, see how to photograph reflective products; this post covers what is specific to resin.
- Gloss: you can't remove the reflection, only choose it. A big soft light gives one clean highlight that says "glossy".
- Transparency: backlight it. Light coming through the resin shows depth, cells and inclusions that front light hides.
- Depth: shoot an edge or 30–45° angled view so buyers see thickness and layers.
- Sets: one group shot, then each coaster from the same tripod position.
- Color shift: resin pigments, mica and alcohol inks change with the light angle. Show that honestly, including in a short clip.
What do you need to photograph resin art?
One large diffused light, a plain background, black and white cards, and a way to light the piece from behind. Most of it costs less than a tube of pigment.
| Item | Why resin needs it | Cheap option |
|---|---|---|
| Large diffused light | One soft highlight instead of many glints | Window with a sheer curtain or tracing paper |
| Black cards | Dark reflections that define glossy edges | Black foam board |
| White cards | Fill shadows; clean bright reflections | White foam board |
| Light pad or bright backlight | Shows transparency, cells, inclusions | Tablet showing a white screen, or a window behind the piece |
| Plain sweep | Nothing busy reflected in the surface | Poster board curved against a wall |
| Tripod | Same framing across a set of coasters | Phone tripod and timer |
| Microfiber cloth and air blower | Dust and fingerprints show on gloss | Lens cloth and a soft brush |
How do you photograph glossy resin without reflections?
Turn the reflection into one large, soft highlight and keep everything else out of it. A flat glossy surface reflects whatever is opposite it at the same angle, so control what's there.
- Clean the surface first. Wipe with a microfiber cloth and blow off dust; every speck shows on cured resin.
- Light from the side, not from behind the camera. Front light puts a hot spot in the middle of a flat coaster or tray.
- Diffuse the light and bring it close. The larger the source compared with the piece, the softer and smoother the highlight.
- Angle the camera slightly (10–20° off straight-down) for flat pieces, so the camera and your phone don't appear in the reflection.
- Hold a black or white card where the surface is reflecting. A white card gives a clean bright sheen; a black card makes deep colors richer.
- Remove clutter from the side the resin faces. Wear dark clothes; turn off ceiling lights.
Some small glints are normal and show that the surface is glossy. Don't retouch away bubbles, dimples or waves that a buyer would see in person; our guide on removing glare covers what is fair to soften.
How do you show transparency and inclusions in resin?
Light the piece from behind or below. Light passing through clear or translucent resin reveals depth, cells, lacing, pressed flowers and embedded objects that front light leaves dark and flat.
- Light pad: lay coasters, bookmarks and jewelry on a light pad or a tablet showing a plain white screen. Turn the brightness down until colors look rich, not washed out.
- Window backlight: hold or prop the piece against a bright window (not direct sun) and expose for the resin, not the sky.
- Combine with a little front light: a white card in front adds some surface detail so the piece doesn't become a silhouette.
- Opaque pours: backlight does nothing for fully pigmented resin. Use raking side light to show cells and lacing texture instead.
- Always include one normal-light photo too, so buyers know how the piece looks on a table, not only glowing.
A backlit coaster glows in a way it never will on a coffee table. Use backlit shots to show inclusions and translucency, label them if the effect is strong ("shown on a light pad"), and always pair them with a regular photo.
How do you show depth and thickness in resin pieces?
Shoot an edge view and an angled view. A straight-down photo makes a 3D ocean pour or a deep river table look flat.
| Piece | Depth shot | What it shows |
|---|---|---|
| Coasters | Stack of 2–4 from the side, plus one at 30° | Thickness, edge finish, backing (cork or felt) |
| Trays and serving boards | Low angle along the length; handle close-up | Raised edges, lip, waves, handle attachment |
| River / epoxy tables | Low angle along the river; end grain | Depth of the river, wood edge, finish |
| Geode and ocean wall art | Raking side light at 45° | Raised cells, wave layers, crystals |
| Jewelry and keychains | Macro side view in a hand | Thickness, dome, bezel |
| Paperweights and spheres | Eye level with a backlight | Clarity, embedded objects |
For the full list of standard views, see our product photography angles guide.
Make a clean white main image from your front shot. The piece is cut out of your photo, so pigments, cells and inclusions stay exactly as photographed.
Make a white main image7 days free · 50 credits · No credit cardHow do you photograph resin coaster sets and trays?
Take one group shot that sells the set, then photograph each piece alone from the same tripod position so colors and sizes compare correctly.
- Group shot: fan or overlap the coasters, or stand them in their holder. Odd numbers and a slight overlap look natural.
- Singles: because each pour is unique, show each coaster the buyer will receive. If they vary, say so: "each set is one of a kind; you receive the set pictured" or "pattern varies".
- Back side: show cork, felt or bare resin backs.
- In use: a mug on a coaster, a tray with cups or candles. Keep props simple so the resin stays the brightest thing in the frame.
- Swatch image: if you offer colorways, shoot each the same way and combine them in one image with our free product collage maker.
Need a styled scene without setting one up? AiArter's background generator cuts your piece out of the photo and places it on a Marble counter, Wooden table or Dark luxury surface for 8 credits. Only the background is generated, so the pour stays as shot; the reflections in the resin will still show your original room, so shoot against a plain background first.
How do you capture color shift, mica and shimmer?
Show it in two or three photos from different angles, or in a short video. Mica, pearl pigments and color-shift powders change with the light angle, and one still photo can't show that.
- Two angles, same light: one straight on, one tilted so the shimmer catches the light. Label the pair so buyers know it's the same piece.
- Hard light for sparkle: a small point light (a phone flashlight) brings out glitter and holographic flakes; soft light shows the base color.
- Short clip: slowly tilting the piece in a 5–10 second video shows shift better than any photo. You can also animate a still into a 5-second clip with AiArter's image to video tool (15 credits), but for color shift a real clip is more honest.
- Don't add sparkle in editing. Buyers notice when the piece is duller in person.
Getting resin colors accurate
Shoot in one type of light, set white balance on a white card, and compare the photo with the real piece. Deep blues, teals and purples are where phones go wrong most, and backlit shots always look more saturated than reality. Clear resin that has yellowed slightly will look whiter on a white background, so mention age for vintage or older pieces. Our color accuracy guide has the full process.
Common resin photography mistakes
| Mistake | What it looks like | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Flash or front light | White hot spot on a flat coaster | Side light, camera slightly angled |
| Room reflected in the gloss | Windows, ceiling lights, the photographer | Plain surroundings; black or white cards |
| Only straight-down shots | Deep pieces look flat | Edge and angled views |
| Only backlit shots | Buyers expect a glow that isn't there | Pair with a normal-light photo |
| Dust and fingerprints | Specks on the gloss in close-ups | Microfiber and air blower before every shot |
| Retouched bubbles | Disputes and returns | Show and describe imperfections |
| Busy background | Competes with the pour | Plain white, grey or black |
Resin photo checklist
- Piece cleaned, dust blown off, fingerprints removed.
- One large diffused side light; cards to shape the reflection.
- Front, angled, edge or stack, back side and close-up shots.
- Backlit shot for clear or translucent pieces, paired with a normal one.
- Color shift shown from two angles or in a short clip.
- Sets: group shot plus each piece from the same position.
- White main image (4 credits in AiArter, or shot on white), then resized per channel with our free marketplace image resizer.
Frequently asked questions
How do you photograph resin art without glare?
Light the piece from the side with one large diffused light instead of from behind the camera, and angle the camera slightly so it doesn't reflect in the surface. Keep windows, ceiling lights and yourself out of the reflection, and use black or white cards to control what the gloss shows.
How do you photograph clear resin?
Backlight it with a light pad, a tablet screen or a bright window so light passes through and shows depth and inclusions. Add a white card in front for surface detail, and include one photo in normal light so buyers see how it looks on a table.
What is the best background for resin photos?
A plain white, grey or black background. White suits marketplace main images; black makes metallic and bright pours stand out. Avoid patterned surfaces, which reflect in the gloss and compete with the design.
How do you show the shimmer in resin in photos?
Take two photos of the same piece from different angles, one straight on and one tilted to catch the light, or record a short clip while slowly tilting it. A small hard light brings out glitter; soft light shows the base color.
How do you photograph resin coasters?
Shoot a group shot of the set, each coaster alone from the same tripod position, a side view of a stack to show thickness, the backing, and one in-use photo with a mug. Light from the side to avoid a hot spot in the middle.
Should I edit bubbles out of resin photos?
No. Remove dust specks that aren't on the piece, but leave bubbles, dimples and waves that a buyer would see in person. Retouching real imperfections leads to disputes and returns.
Upload your resin art photos and get white main images, styled scenes and sizes for every channel, with pours, cells and inclusions kept exactly as photographed.
Start free trialSee pricing7 days free · 50 credits · No credit card. Trial images carry a small “Made with aiarter” mark; paid plans export clean files you can use commercially.
